There isn't much play with the rear wings so let's assume those are bolted up. Front wings are not on.
This is my recipe for body assembly. Works for me.
1. Install the safety catch receiver on the B post and tongue on the door.
2. Run 2 lines of wide painters tape down the rear wing and fold over tight. Protects the paint but you can still read the line.
3. Run 2 lines of painters tape across door sill for protection
4. Get your door check in position to receive the door, hinge bolts to door out. Find the door check-strap pin and make sure it slides into the parts.
5. Put a dab of grease on the hinge bolts
6. Carefully present the door to the jamb and engage the safety catch and press in until the door is flush with the rear wing line. Install the door check pin.
7. Get a Philips screwdriver and wiggle the adjustable plate inside the door until it lines up a bolt hole in the hinge (you or a helper are holding the door)
8. Get a couple outer bolts started and then try getting all four outer bolts started, hand tighten until the lockwasher is met but not squeezed.
9. You can pull up until the gap is even at the B post
10. You can move the top in or out and the bottom in or out until the door is flush with the lines of the rear wing.
11. Tighten a couple bolts and check all the lines until your happy. You can install the two inner hinge bolts now.
12. If the door to B post gap is still not to your liking, put a shim or two under the rear body mount (a 2 x 4 on a floor jack lifts the body off the frame a bit) or take a shim out depending on the problem.
Then loosely fit up the front wings with the acme screws fit loosely, then try (it's hard) to get the three 7/16's bolts in at the bottom.
You have to press pretty hard because the new baffle seal doesn't want to open up. You may need to find or make a tool to pull the rubber flap open. It's worth doing.
There isn't much adjustment on the front wings - a little fore and aft and a little wiggle to close up any gap line to the door.
Press the wing in to flush it with the door lines and have a buddy tighten up the lower bolts
Finally, install the beading and tighten the acme screws a bit
Lastly, have a buddy press in on the wing to flush where it meets the door at the A post and tighten the three bolts inside under the dash, then tighten up the acme screws, bend over the tabs on the beading.
When you are done the body lines should flow smooth from front to back.
This is my recipe for body assembly. Works for me.
1. Install the safety catch receiver on the B post and tongue on the door.
2. Run 2 lines of wide painters tape down the rear wing and fold over tight. Protects the paint but you can still read the line.
3. Run 2 lines of painters tape across door sill for protection
4. Get your door check in position to receive the door, hinge bolts to door out. Find the door check-strap pin and make sure it slides into the parts.
5. Put a dab of grease on the hinge bolts
6. Carefully present the door to the jamb and engage the safety catch and press in until the door is flush with the rear wing line. Install the door check pin.
7. Get a Philips screwdriver and wiggle the adjustable plate inside the door until it lines up a bolt hole in the hinge (you or a helper are holding the door)
8. Get a couple outer bolts started and then try getting all four outer bolts started, hand tighten until the lockwasher is met but not squeezed.
9. You can pull up until the gap is even at the B post
10. You can move the top in or out and the bottom in or out until the door is flush with the lines of the rear wing.
11. Tighten a couple bolts and check all the lines until your happy. You can install the two inner hinge bolts now.
12. If the door to B post gap is still not to your liking, put a shim or two under the rear body mount (a 2 x 4 on a floor jack lifts the body off the frame a bit) or take a shim out depending on the problem.
Then loosely fit up the front wings with the acme screws fit loosely, then try (it's hard) to get the three 7/16's bolts in at the bottom.
You have to press pretty hard because the new baffle seal doesn't want to open up. You may need to find or make a tool to pull the rubber flap open. It's worth doing.
There isn't much adjustment on the front wings - a little fore and aft and a little wiggle to close up any gap line to the door.
Press the wing in to flush it with the door lines and have a buddy tighten up the lower bolts
Finally, install the beading and tighten the acme screws a bit
Lastly, have a buddy press in on the wing to flush where it meets the door at the A post and tighten the three bolts inside under the dash, then tighten up the acme screws, bend over the tabs on the beading.
When you are done the body lines should flow smooth from front to back.